It is a mystery to anyone who has spent more than a few
nights sampling Istanbul's extensive and diverse nightlife
that the city has never really managed to establishing
international reputation for fun. Unlike many of the east
European capitals Istanbul is more associated by outsiders
to mosques, battlements and hamams than bars, nightclubs
and restaurants. This is a travesty. From the bohemian
backstreets of Beyoglu to the pumping ostentation of
Ortakoy or Etiler, Istanbul really does boast one of the
most engaging and vibrant scenes in the region. The only
potential nightmare for any would-be reveller in Turkey's
biggest city is the agony of choice. The city is generally
safe, the people extremely welcoming and, best of all, the
prices relatively cheap.
Istanbul is a city that eats and sleeps late and those wishing to sink a
few early drinks without doing so alone must be selective.
Beyoglu, the area stretching south down Istiklal Caddesi
from Taksim Square is a good place to start. The area
itself is rumoured
to boast over 950 bars. As the offices of central Istanbul
close, the small cafes at the top of the street begin to
fill up with an eclectic selection of locals, from
students and intellectuals to businessmen and wannabe rock
stars. Kaktus and Pia are typical haunts; small but cosy
and, although half the people seem to be reading on their
own, you get the impression that at least half the
clientele are keeping one eye permanently fixed on the
door .On the opposite side of the main street is Dulcinea,
a larger, trendier brasserie that has become a staple for
the city's young. This converts effort- lessly from a warm
relaxed afternoon coffee-house to a lively mid-price
eaterie in the evening and finally to a swinging cocktail
bar after 11 pm.Just off the main thoroughfare to Tepebası,
sits the James Joyce, arguably the best Irish pub in the
area. Although such bars are usually on the list of places
to avoid for all except the terminally homesick, this pub
tends to rustle-up a spirited atmosphere and offers
possibly the best full- size pool table around.
Taksim's smartest bar is on the ground floor of the renowned Pera Palace
Hotel, which was built in the late 19th century as the
resting house for guests arriving on the Orient Express.
Although the establishment may have lost some of its
panache it has lost none of its charm. You may wait longer
to be served here than you would anywhere else in the city
or but a few extra minutes in a room full of 1920s
memorabilias highly pleasant.
For those looking to indulge in a slightly more upmarket evening, a mile
away in the fashionable Nisantası area are some of the
hippest evening spots to be found anywhere in Turkey.
After a tiring day shopping for over-priced foreign
fashion brands,there is nothing better than to treat
yourself to a 6 o 'clock gin and tonic at Istanbul's own
Armani Caffe.
With more leather on display than at your average Harley
Davidson convention, this is not a place to pitch up in a
faded rock tour t-shirt and jeanss; but it is fun all the
same .
If you are lucky enough to arrive in the city during the long summer
months it is essential to take advantage of the long
afternoons when Istanbul glows a deep orange. Around 7pm
there is no better place to admire the historic
Sultanahmet skyline than from the Q Bar terrace along the
Bosphorus at the Cıragan Palace hotel. Nothing can destroy
the serenity of the scene except possibly the cheque.
Further along the waterfront in Bebek is one of the best kept secrets in
town, the terrace of the Bebek Hotel. Although a glance
from the main street reveals nothing except a slightly
tacky sign and a forgettable facade, the entrance hall
leads directly through to a terrace in the rear that juts
out into the Bosphorus, offering guests an incredible view
of the Asian mainland across the waterway. The bill is
more reflective of the fleet of German cars parked outside.
A brief mention must be made for sport lovers. The centre of Istanbul
offers just a handful of sports bars, none of which have
invested in anything except the local league (this is
worth watching, though, if only to enjoy everyone else's
reaction.). Fans of English football are forced to travel
all the way to the Champions Bar at the Polat Renaissance
Hotel.
At around 9pm, Istanbul's bars and restaurants begin to heat up. Those
who find themselves in Taksim may decide just to stay put.
A local favourite, tucked away close to the British
consulate, is Pano bar, an old Greek wine bar first opened
in 1896. The bar, which also has an extremely atmospheric
basement restaurant, is packed on most nights and you may
have to wait before being given a place at one of the long
wooden tables. The bar's policy of promoting its own,
pretty dubious wine tends to encourage a convival
atmosphere. With most of the clientele standing wherever
possible, it is very easy to meet people.
Further up Istiklal Caddesi, nestled inside the Atlas cinema, is the
small but thriving Sefahathane bar, home to an eclectic
group of musicians, students, and bankers wishing they
were students again. Always good for a brief stop,
Sefahathane's unique characteristic is a large video
screen showing some of the most obscure movies ever made,
including the hugely popular Turkish cult classic 'The Man
Who saved the World' which has footage taken (literally)
straight from Star Wars. Other fun bars on this stretch
include the original Hayal Kahvesi and, closer to Taksim
Square, Andon bar. Andon is great for those who are
undecided; four different themes on four floors, from a
dark, candle lit bar on the ground floor pumping out a
mixture of Arabic, Spanish and Greek music to real Turkish
tavern upstairs.
Those with a more sensitive palate (and a slightly thicker wallet) may
prefer the yuppie restaurant bars of Abdi Ipekci Caddesi
down the road in Nisantasi. Of these, Downtown and Bice,
near the top of the street, are probably the most popular.
Both offer smart, well-run bars full of pretty young
things who have managed to make it through the bustle of
Istanbul's streets without putting a hair out of place. A
slightly more down- at -the-heel environment can be found
at Touchdown, further down the road. Here a mixture of
journalists and advertising executives meet in an almost
homely atmosphere.
Istanbul has not escaped, the fad for so-called British pubs, a term
which here refers to a European style bar that serves
Turkish lager in halves, charges at the door, and dishes
out sliced carrots with drinks. Indeed, except for the
almost mandatory pic- ture of the Queen, it is hard to
spot anything particularly English in the place at all;
except possibly half the patrons who have been overseas
for so long they have evidently forgot- ten what a British
pub looks like. Still, if that is your pleasure, the most
popular pub remains the Sherlock Holmes in Levent, which
is packed at weekends despite the flu cover charge.
As evening turns to night, the city really starts to show its colours. in
the summer, after 11pm there are some wonderful nightspots
worth investigating on the Bosphorus. Of these, Pasha, the
huge open-air club in Ortakoy, with its five restaurants
and two dance-floors, is the most stunning. As with all of
the city's smartest hangouts, entrance fees are
extortionate. They can be avoided by making a reservation
at any one of the surprisingly reasonably-priced
restaurants. Having made it past the door- man, you are in
for a real treat. This really is the summum for Istanbul's
beautiful set.
Pasha is nothing if not a place to indulge. Although the club is huge, it
is divided into distinct sections with different styles of
music, avoiding the monotony of some of large clubs on the
south coast. The glamour of Pasha is not unique: opposite
at Zihni, up the road at Havana or, better still, across
the water to Hayal Kahvesi similar scenes are played out
almost nightly in the summer. At Hayal Kahvesi guests are
taken across to the Asian side on a private boat that
departs regularly from Rumeli Hisarı close to the second
bridge.
Although all of these nightspots are only open from May to October,
winter visitors need not worry: Istanbul's social scene
simply shifts about a mile inland. The best of these,
Havana, is tucked away under a large office block in
Mecidiyekoy .Again, it is worth booking the restaurant to
avoid the entrance fees. Inside one finds the usual cigar-smoking
set on a Well-trodden circuit. For a slightly more relaxed
atmosphere we would recommend Vogue, particularly on
Thursdays. The people are equally beautiful but here they
look as though they are really having fun. AII of these
clubs are open until at least 2am-3am.
Late night entertainment is not restricted to the more expensive venues.
The whole of Beyoglu thrives until at least 2am and many
clubs stay open until 4am or 5am. Barfly has some good
bands and close-by is the more saloubrious Roxy bar. This
venue avoids the spit and sawdust feel of other bars in
the area, while maintaining a raw, exciting atmosphere
that has long since gone from the more expensive and
exclusive clubs of Etiler.
Like everywhere else at the weekends, there is a cover charge and groups
of men are not iooked upon particularly favourably by the
doormen.
CATWALK
0212-2310356
Maçka
Demokrasi Parkı Maçka
Catwalks
features fusion foods and has a great sea view out the
window. The restaurant opens at 19.00 and closes when the
last customer leave.
HAMMAM
0212-5116316
Sepetçiler
Karı Sarayburnu
Located in
the historical “Sepetçiler Kasrı”, Hammam’s restaurant
transforms into a nightclub at night. Th party goes until
02.00 - 03.00.
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B a b
y l
o n
Seyhbender
Sokak No:3 Tunel-Asmalımescit-Beyoglu 80040
Istanbul
Telephone : (212) 292 73 68
http://www.babylon-ist.com
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LACIVERT
Körfez
Cd No:57/A Anadolu Hisarı
Lacivert
is one of the Istanbul’s ten newest restaurants. The venue
is an Istanbul mansion.
Try the
crepes.
Tel :
0216-4133753
DEVELI
REST.
Balıkpazarı G.yüzük Sk No:7 Samatya
The
finest kebap you can eat in Istanbul, Develi serves
samples of Gaziantep cuisine
Tel :
0212-5881189
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L a i l a
Muallim Naci
Cad. No:141-142
Ortakoy Istanbul
Telephone :
0212 227 17
11
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JOY
ORTAKOY
0212-3272844
M.Naci Cd
Salhane Sk No:5 Ortaköy
Joy is a
restaurant, bar and nightclub ans is open from 19.00 –
04.00. You can listen to trip pop, acid jazz and Latin
Music. It is essential to make a reservation for dinner.
7 th HOUSE
0212-3610718
Nizamiye
Cd No: 11/13 Taksim
A
nightclub where you can hear underground music.
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P E
O P
L E
Konaklar Mah.
Meseli Sok. No:3 Levent Istanbul
Telephone:
0212 279 86 99
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SOHO
0212-2450152
Meşelik Sk
No:11/12 Taksim
As a
supper club, Soho serves Italian and French cuisine. No
live music, but a different DJ provides the tunes every
night.
HAYAL
KAHVESI
(Buyukparmakkapi Sok. 19,
Beyoglu,
Telephone:
212/224-2558)
Attracts a mostly young crowd
for live (and loud) rock and blues.
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C H
A N
G A
Siraselviler cad.
87/1
Taksim Istanbul
Telephone
:
212 251 70 64
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HARRY'S
JAZZ BAR
Hyatt Regency Hotel, Taskisla,
Taksim,
Telephone :
212/225-7000
Sometimes hosts live blues and
rock acts.
KEMANCI
/
MANDALA
Siraselviler cad.69, Taksim.
Telephone:
(212) 245 30 48
Three floors each with its own
bars and live rock music. Top floor more gay.
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C L
U B 147
Buyukdere Caddesi
147 Zincirlikuyu - Istanbul
Telephone :
212 213 01 36
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HAN CAFE
Cumhuriyet cad. Taksim Square.
Evenings and nights. Very cruisy. Back bar has a lesbian
barmaid. 09-02h
BARBAHCE
The same building with 5.floor)
Lively atmosphere, trendy place and busy at weekends.
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P L
U S
C
L U
B
Mis Sok. No:11
Beyoglu Istanbul
Telephone :
212 243 63 95
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ROXY
Siraselviler cad. Arslanyatagi
sok. 9, Taksim.
Telephone : (212) 249
48 39
An ex-gay disco. Good concerts (jazzrock) throughout the
week, very good music, friendly staff. 24-04h
CLUB 14
Abdulhakhamit cad. Belediye
Dukkanlari, No:14, Taksim
Telephone:
(212) 256 21 21.
Operates an FM radio station
radio 2019 at 90.6 MHz Young crowd, lively atmosphere,
good music and friendly staff. 24-04h.
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C L
U B
B
E Y
O N
D
Muallim Naci Cad.
No: 109 Ortakoy Istanbul
Telephone : 212 261 19 88
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HENGAME
Istiklal cad. Sahne sok. 6,
Balikpazari,Taksim
ANDON
Address : Siraselviler Cd 89 Siraselviler.Taksim
Telephone : 212 - 251 02 22
CENEVIZ
MEYHANESI
Cicek
Pasaji 12 Beyoglu
212 - 245 49 45
AGORA
MEYHANESI
Leblebiciler Sk 8 Balat
212 - 523 78 77
ECE RESTAURANT (Aynali
Meyhane)
Tramvay Cd 104 Kuruçesme
212 - 265 96 00
SARABI
Istiklal
Cd 174 Beyoglu-Taksim
212 - 244 46 09